Sekt Documentary: Visiting Winemaker Michael Malat
SEKT DOCUMENTARY
visiting Michael Malat /Kremstal/
This year January has been a cold month here in Kremstal with snow and some frozen puddles. The vineyards seem to be asleep and calm, waiting for the first warm spring sun that will breathe life into forming buds and let the season of 2021 start. The winery of MALAT stands just at the end of a tiny town, overlooking their own vineyards. We are greeted by Michael Malat, who is happy to show around his historical, family owned winery and cellar. He is the representative of the 10th generation. A very passionate winemaker, whose Sekt has gained great attention.
Winery MALAT was established in 1722, located in the wine village Furth-Palt, between Krems and the Göttweiger Berg mountain crowned by the imposing Stift Göttweig abbey.
The MALAT brut is Austria's first Winzersekt (grower Sekt) and has been made in the traditional method since 1976, undergoing bottle fermentation and hand-riddling in small batches.
Michael Malat took over the estate from his father Gerald in 2008 and since then has become a true sekt expert - no dosage, purity and finesse, gaining admiration on the local market and internationally.
During the harvest season he pays great attention to PH level and sets the day of grape picking according to that.
“Single vintage only.”
“I believe that the local, typical grape varieties like Grüne Veltliner, Welschriesling and others can be made into Sekt, but on a longer term they can not really compete with Sekt made from Chardonnay. The Sekt then just lacks the crispiness, the complexity, character.”
Every cellar we've visited has its own character. At MALAT’S the most eye-catching object is the bottle storage system - sur latte, where the bottles are stacked on the sides between thin layers of wood slats, meant to stabilize the pile and let air circulate, reducing heat if the bottles are put too dense. This system was introduced by Michael's father Gerald and has proven to be the best throughout the years.
At the end bubbles were out and we did enjoy a nice sip of Brut Rose Reserve. So, PROST!
words SANTA PILENS, MARTINS PILENS
photography and illustration SANTA PILENS